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As if we've stepped into a time machine, Whitesville, Merz b. Schwanen, and Velva Sheen are once again household names. These heritage brands prioritize well-made basics, catching the eye of a crowd fed up with fast fashion.
While shows like The Bear have catapulted these brands into the fashion forefront, their quality has long been known to costume designers who’ve used them in productions like Peaky Blinders and blockbuster films such as Aquaman. Whether you’re in 1900s England like Cillian Murphy, or looking hot while having a complete meltdown in the kitchen à la Jeremy Allen White, there's an impeccably made piece for you.
But before costume designers and stylists used these shirts in film, they were the standard. Perfect for everyone from blue-collar workers to 1950s preps, the quality of these shirts fit an array of needs and were made to last a lifetime. One henley, in particular, actually did.
Originally founded in 1911 by Balthasar Merz, Merz b. Schwanen was a garment brand specializing in loop-wheeled workers’ henleys and underwear. Sadly, the brand shuttered in 2005 as cheap fast-fashion labels were on the rise. Six years later, however, vintage collectors Gritta and Peter Plotnicki unearthed a beautifully preserved 90-year-old Merz b. Schwanen Henley in a Berlin flea market—and the rest, as they say, is history. The Plotnickis revived the classic brand, teaming up with a garment factory in a small German town to recreate the original level of craftsmanship.
Loopwheel knitting refers to the manufacturing style of the garment, which is created with one continuous loop of fabric over a cylinder. It typically requires the use of long-staple cotton fibers, which create a stronger, smoother yarn. The only tension in the process is the weight of gravity as the fabric moves smoothly around each cylinder. The result is a durable but soft fabric, free of side seams.
As quantity and speed became more valuable in manufacturing, loop-wheeling became obsolete in favor of quicker practices. These machines were collecting dust, but brands like Toyo Enterprises, Velva Sheen, and the Plotnickis’ saw an opportunity. While these are far from the only companies who specialize in making clothes the good old fashion way, we hope they will continue to chart a path for us to turn back the clock and shift the public mindset back to classic practices aimed at longevity.
Before making your purchase, check out our brand-specific sizing advice:
• Made in the USA
• Founded in 1932 in Cincinnati, Ohio, this company originally produced sweats, t-shirts, jackets, and gym shorts for colleges, camps, schools, and the U.S. Armed Forces.
• Sizing runs small, we recommend buying one size up.
• The classic blue label represents styles common in the ’50s and ’60s, while the yellow labels are used for cuts popular in the ’70s and ’80s.
We love their yellow-label rolled tee and the blue-label pocket tee.
• Made in Berlin, Germany
• Founded in 1911, this brand was known for loop-wheeled workers’ Henleys and underwear.
• Order a full size up; if between sizes, order two sizes up. Expect approximately 1.5” of length shrinkage following the first wash.
• Availability can be limited, but you can’t go wrong with a classic sweatshort, a loopwheeled sweatshirt, or their original henley.
• Made in Japan
• A classic American sportswear label from the 1940s, this brand was known for its t-shirts, varsity, and letterman jackets.
Modern-day Whitesville tees are modeled after the classic 1950s cut and run small.
• Please size up one full size and expect .5'” to .75” of length shrinkage following the first wash.
• Available in four colors on Garmentory.
